The destination
Why Goa by Motorcycle
Goa's reputation arrives before you do. The beaches, the parties, the December crowds — none of that is wrong, exactly, but it covers something more interesting. A motorcycle gets you underneath it.
The coastal roads running north and south of Palolem are narrow, quiet, and lined with coconut groves that haven't changed much in fifty years. The villages in Goa's interior move at their own pace — Catholic and Hindu influences layered over each other, Portuguese-era architecture standing beside working rice fields, an unhurried quality of life that the tourist strip in North Goa never quite achieves.
The road south through Netravali Wildlife Sanctuary drops into forest that feels genuinely remote. The road north through Fontainhas and Old Goa carries four centuries of history in a few square kilometres. On a Royal Enfield, at the right pace, Goa speaks in its own voice.
And from Palolem, the road doesn't have to end in Goa. The Western Ghats begin almost immediately to the east, and Karnataka's highlands — Jog Falls, Chikmagaluru's coffee estates, Madikeri's jungle valley — are one long riding day away. Goa is a beginning as much as a destination.